MEYER,+CLAUDIA

__Field trip questions__
 * 1) Which material is the hardest to use (for you)?
 * 2) Do you use one type of material for all types of clothing materials?
 * 3) How do you sew the bottom of a dress without showing the seam?
 * 4) What are the most important materials you use?

__Fabric Testing: preparing for fabric selection __

Lesson overview: Today you will do some fabric testing with three questions in mind. 1) What are the basic methods of constructing fabric? 2) What level of fabric absorption should a fabric have to be of suitable use for a bathrobe, a duvet cover, and a water-resistant jacket? 3) How can you test fabrics for their ability to resist abrasion?

A. Important concepts: Can you define. . . ? Write your definitions here. The amount of water the fabric absorbs. It is the process of wearing away the fabric to check if the material is hard wearing or tough material.
 * Fabric construction: (How many different types are there?)
 * 1) Knit
 * 2) Woven
 * 3) Bonded
 * 4) Felted
 * Water absorption:
 * Abrasion:


 * || Fabric Construction || <span style="display: block; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif'; text-align: center;">Absorption || <span style="display: block; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif'; text-align: center;">Abrasion ||
 * <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Dress beige fabric || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Knitted || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Yes || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Cloth burned and melted ||
 * <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Designed white and black fabric || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Twill weave || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Yes || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Cloth burned and melted ||
 * <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Purple fabric || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">knitted || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Yes || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Cloth burned and melted ||
 * <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Blue fabric || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Felted || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Yes || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Melted ||
 * <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Yellow fabric || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Felted || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Yes || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Melted ||
 * <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Towel fabric || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Plain weave || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Yes || <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">Flame retardant ||

__Conclusion__ <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';">In conclusion the felted fabrics only melted and they absorbed water. The only fabric that was flame retardant was the plain weave towel. The knitted and twill weaved fabrics burned and melted, meaning that they didn’t catch fire but they also weren’t flame retardant. Every fabric absorbed water. Some fabrics, for example the towel, had a plain weave and some knitting on top, and I think this is done so as to make it more absorbent.

__**Project 1: Hand Sewing – Hand Pieced Pin Cushion**__ Review procedure for making the pin cushion, and then evaluate your level of mastery on the following chart.


 * Skill || Not done || Partial Mastery || Mastered ||
 * Straight Running or back stitch ||  ||   || yes ||
 * Seams aligned ||  ||   || yes ||
 * Whip or overcast stitch (closure) ||  ||   || yes ||
 * Ironed and cleanly finished seams ||  ||   || yes ||

While investigating this project i found pictures of numerous types of quilted pin cushions, and this definitely helped me picture what my end result would turn out to be and how I would like it to turn out. The design brief asked for the three types of fabrics to never touch meaning they will be somewhat opposite of each other when they are sewn together, but I had ended up sewing them adjacent to each other by mistake.
 * Criterion A: Investigate**

My design turned out to be three random fabrics that seemed to me like they complimented each other. The material they were made out of were quite different, but in the end they worked well for the purpose of the project, a place holder for pins and needles. I also designed this pin cushion with a thick and semi- rough bottom so the pins and needles don't stick through it, with semi-thin fabrics creating the hexagonal shape on top so it is easy for the pins to go through. The design brief asked for two buttons, one on the top and one on the bottom, but i thought it would look better with one on the top. I ended up following the design brief instead of my own specifications.
 * Criterion B: Design**

I first decided to use the predrawn shapes for the pin cushion and i cut them out and placed them on another paper and added 1/2 in seam allowance, that way my cutting of fabric was more efficient. I also placed the pieces of the cut out fabrics next to each other in a way that i wanted them to look when I finish. This would also make sewing more efficient and easy. But that didn't go according to plan, I ended up sewing the same fabrics adjacent to each other. Over all I created my product with efficiency and ease.
 * Criterion C: Plan**

I have not taken pictures of my final product but i will when i get my product from the class room.
 * Criterion D: Create**

Overall i believe that I followed the directions in a manner that proved to be efficient and successful. This is evident when you see my product. If i had to change or do anything i would probably stuff it a little more, and make the finishing stitch a bit more neat.
 * Criterion E: Evaluate**

__**"Good Hat Day" Hat**__

__Materials__ -fabric material -scissors fabric and paper -tape measure/ ruler -pencil

__Plan__ Measure, Mark, and Cut 1. Measure the circcircumference of your head. Mine is 56.5 cm. 2. Measure on paper and cut out. Remember to mark the seam allowance. These paper cut outs are the pattern peices to your hat. Hat strip A: 5.5 cm tall X 56.5 cm long (cut 3; 1 from exterior fabric, and 2 from interior fabric) Hat strip B: 8 cm tall X 56.5 cm long (cut 2; 1 from exterior and 1 from interior Hat strip C: 4.5 cm tall X 56.5 cm long (cut 1 Top: a circle that matches your head circumference plus seam allowance,1/2 in. (cut 2) Brim: trace ready made brim pattern and add 1/2 in. (cut 2 from stick on interfacing, 1 from thick interfacing, and 2 from exterior fabric) 3. Place pattern on fabric, pin pattern pieces, transfer markings. Cut the fabric out.

Stitch the Hat Strips 4. With RS together, seam hat strip A to hat strip B along one long edge. 5. Then again with RS together, seam hat strip C to the other raw edge of hat strip B. You have now created **exterior** hat band ABC. 6. Next with RS together, seam your second and third A hat strips together separately from hat band ABC. Then seam the last hat strip B to the other raw edge of hat strip A, creating **interior** hat band AAB. 7.Press all seams open. 8.Next with RS together, seam the short ends of hat band AAB together, press seam open. Repeat with hat band ABC and press seams open. 9. ON the interior hat band seam a 1/2 inch hem on the long raw edge of strip A.

Make the Brim 10. Iron on the interfacing to the WS on both the interior and exterior hat brims. 11. Next add an additional thicker interfacing. This will be in the middle between the top and bottom brims. 12. With RS together, pin and seam around the outside curved edge. Add the additional interfacing. 13. Turn right side out and press. 14. Next topstitch 1/4 in from the finished edge of brim. 15. Topstitch 1/2 in away from the first stitching line and repeat three additional times, each at 1/2 in intervals. This will help stiffen the brim and it looks more professional.

Attach the brim and hat bands 16. Find the center of the inner raw edge of the brim and mark. 17. Fold the interior at band AAB in half and mark the center of the B strip. Do the same with exterior hat band ABC and mark the center of the A strip. 18. Align the center points of the raw edges, sandwiching the brim between the hat bands, and seam 1/2 inch SA from the top all the way around. The inside of the brim might be too thick to fit on your sewing machine, so you could hand sew using a thick needle and backstitching for that part. 19. Turn right side out, press, and finish by topstitching 1/4 inch from the finished edge, taking care not to catch the brim.

Attach the Top of the Hat 20. With RS together pin the circular top pieces together. Then pin both pieces to the raw edge of exterior hat band ABC, aligning markings. Ease extra fullness out of the hat by stretching the hat band as you pin. 21. Turn the hat inside out, pin the hemmed edge of interior hat band AAB in place, taking care to cover the seams. Finish by slip-stitching the interior hat band to the top.

__- Did I compare my product with the design specification?__ Yes i did compare it to the design specification. I think that it is close to the picture given. I also think considering i had to improvise on some of the instructions i feel that it probably turned out better than what the design specification asked for. I think i should have used a thinner linning because it ended up being too small. I also think i should have changed the measurements because the hat is a little too tall. Overall i think that it is well made and looks professional. __-Did i test the product?__ Yes and it is too small for my head. This is because either i used too thick of lining or i shouldnt have added a lining at all. __-Did I get feedback from others on my product?__ Yes my peers agreed that it was too small and the warm material i used for my linning was unnecessary and its what made it smaller than expected. __-did i suggest areas for improvement__? I should have pinned and tried it on before sewing the linning on to check if it was too big or in this case, too small. I also should have thought more about the measurements because i think it turned out a little too tall. But i think it turned out very clean and proffessional. I feel i did a good job on the brim because it looks like one you would find in a shop, the seams are well spaced and organized
 * __Hat Evaluation__**

__**Tunic Dress Plan**__ __To sew the dress__ 1. Sew closed darts on the BK DRESS. 2.Join CB seam. 3. Sew bust darts on FRT DRESS, joining edges of dart cut into pattern piece under armhole and extending dart to positioning mark indicated for size. 4. Fold CF pleat with positioning marks meeting, to match at CF. 5. Baste along inside of seamline on neck edge to secure pleat in place. 6. Overstitch CF pleat fold together to secure in place, ending stitching at positioning mark indicated for size.

__To make and Attach the Pockets__ 1. Place RS lining over RS POCKET. Starting at bottom, sew together around outside edge, leaving 1 1/2 in. unstitched opening to finish. 2. Trim SA to 1/4 in. clip corners at an angle and around curves up to but not through stitching. 3. Turn RS out. 4. Turn SA of opening under and press flat. 5. Position corners of pocket onto pocket positioning marks on FRT DRESS. Pin flat onto dress. 6. Edgestitch around pocket curve to attach. 7. As a side step, sew a hem on the neck 1/4 in SA.

__To insert the Sleeves__ 1. Matching notches, pin sleeve to armhole, distributing the extra fabric on the sleeve evenly. 2. Sew sleeve to armhole with 1/4 in. SA. Sew again, using correct 1 in. SA. 3. Place RS bias Tape along RS sleeve hem edge. Sew through bias tape at the fold to attach. 4. Sew side seams together. Start by sewing bias tape, then sleeve hem edge, then underarm, and then down to hem. 5. Turn bias tape to WS of sleeve, with existing bias tape stitchline at hem edge. 6. With other bias tape edge turned under, edgestitch bias tape onto WS sleeve.

__To finish the hem__ 1. Unpick CF pleat overstitching. 2. Turn hem edge under 3/8 in. Press. Turn under again 1 1/4 in. Press, making sure CF pleat folds are pressed well at hem.

__- Did I compare my product with the design specification?__ Yes i did compare it to the design specification and i believe that it is pretty close to what the specifications look like. Although i added two pleats on each hem of the sleeves, and i decided not to add a collar. I chose to add the pleats because it was originally too baggy to my liking and i wanted it to be more fitted to my arm. I decided not to add a collar because i didnt want one, i think it looks nice withouth one. __-Did i test the product?__ Yes i tested the product numerous times, i constantly tried on the dress after each major seam i made. This helped me use my instincts to fix anything that needed fixing. __-Did I get feedback from others on my product?__ Yes my peers constantly gave me feedback on changes I made or gave their opinion on fabric color and whether or not i should make it shorter or longer. They were very helpful in my decision making, and it helped me with my decision making. In the end they agreed that i had done a good job and my sewing techniques were evident. __-did i suggest areas for improvement__? I think i could have made my hem on the neckline a little neater, it looks a little rushed and a little messy, but otherwise i think i did a good job on the pockets and the pleats and the sleeves.
 * __Tunic Dress Evaluation__**

__**Bag Client**__ A message to the client: The actual interview can simply deal with generalities, or can be as detailed as you prefer. In either case, once you have communicated your requirements and preferences, you can then choose not to be involved again (except to receive periodic progress updates) if you wish.

|||| Date : November 23, 2011 ||
 * Client name: Robin Muller ||
 * E-mail: rmuller@aisdaka.org || Room: HS 300 ||
 * 1. What is the best way to contact you? In class or email ||
 * 2. How often do you wish to be contacted? As often as possible ||
 * 3. What type of bag do you desire? Laptop bag ||
 * 4. Who will use the bag? Mrs. Muller will use it ||
 * 5. For what purpose will the bag be used? To carry her laptop and charger in ||
 * 6. How often will the bag be used? All the time ||
 * 7. How would you describe your style? Eclectic/ cool not floral ||
 * 8. What is more important to you, quality or style? both ||
 * 9. Please describe your vision of the final project. **(Note color, fabric, special features, minimum size)** ||
 * -pocket: one big pocket that would cover the whole front of the bag, to put charger ||
 * -zipper: that goes a little on the side on both sides ||
 * -Handles: strong and she wants a shoulder strap and hand straps and padded. ||

__Design brief__ The client is asking for a laptop bag that she will be able to carry her laptop and charger, possibly other small appliances like an i-pod or i-pod charger. The client will be using this bag almost everyday so the material and seams have to be strong. Since the bag is meant for a laptop then the bag needs to be padded with interfacing. The size of the bag will depend on the size of the laptop, but the laptop should fit snugly in its compartment. The bag will consist of short handles and a shoulder strap, but a possible consideration could be a removable strap that could be attached with a clip. The client would like a pocket covering the front of the bag. A zipper will cover from the side of the bag to the other side.